Cooktops, heaters and gas lines fitted, tested and certified in one visit. And a word about the barbecue hose, which is the gas fitting in your yard that nobody thinks of as one.
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Ask most people what gas fittings they have and they will list the cooktop, maybe a heater, and the hot water system. Almost nobody mentions the hose running from the bayonet or the cylinder to the barbecue, which is a genuine gas connection and the one living the hardest life.
It is a flexible rubber and fabric assembly. It sits outdoors, it is coiled and uncoiled, it spends summers in direct sunlight and winters in the weather, and it gets bent in the same spot every time it is put away. Rubber perishes under every one of those conditions.
It is also a consumable, not permanent plumbing. Manufacturers put a life on these assemblies and many hoses carry a date, and the honest test for most households is simpler than that: if you cannot remember buying it, it is old enough to look at properly.
Looking at it properly means checking for cracking on the outer surface, especially near the fittings and anywhere it bends repeatedly, and for hardness where it used to be supple. And there is a real test you can run with washing up liquid: soapy water on the hose and the connections, gas on, appliance off. Bubbles mean gas is escaping.
No switches, no phones indoors. Turn it off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
Ventilate, then get people out, then call from outdoors. That order matters more than anything else on this page.
Nothing electrical while you are still inside. No light switches, no extraction fan, no unplugging anything, and no phone call from the room that smells.
A licensed gas fitter picks up when you ring us. Where the right answer is the network's emergency line instead, we will say so rather than take a booking.
Outdoors, coiled and uncoiled, full sun in summer and weather in winter, and connected to an appliance that gets dragged around the paving. A barbecue hose has a harder life than any other gas component on a property.
It is also a consumable. Rubber perishes, the reinforcement inside it hardens, and a hose that was fine three summers ago is not automatically fine now.
Almost nobody replaces one. They get replaced when the barbecue does, which can be fifteen years apart.
Cracking shows first where the hose bends and where it meets the connections at either end. Flex it gently with the gas off and look at the outside surface.
Fine surface crazing is age. Cracks you can see into, a hose that has gone hard, or anything weeping at a crimp is a replacement rather than a watch-and-see.
The fitting itself is worth a look too. A crimp that has loosened or a thread that has been over-tightened does the same job as a split hose.
Gas on, appliance off, soapy water brushed over the hose and both connections. Bubbles forming where none should be is a leak, and it is as reliable a test as anything we would do.
Do it outdoors, which for a barbecue it is anyway, and do not use a flame to find a gas leak under any circumstances.
If it bubbles, turn the cylinder or the isolation valve off and leave it off. A hose is a cheap part and a barbecue is not worth improvising around.
Then it is old enough to be looked at closely rather than glanced at. That is the whole rule and it catches most of what needs catching.
Hoses and regulators are inexpensive, widely available, and a five minute job to change. There is no version of this where waiting is the sensible option.
It is a good thing to add to a visit that is happening anyway rather than a reason for its own call-out.
Fixed pipework to a built-in barbecue or an outdoor kitchen is a proper gas installation rather than a hose across the paving. It gets sized for the run and the load, pressure tested, and certified.
It is also considerably better to live with. No cylinder to swap, no hose to trip over, and nothing perishing in the sun.
On a property where the outdoor area gets genuine use, it is worth pricing. The pipe run from the meter is usually the variable, so it is a per-property number rather than a list price.
Adding an appliance is a calculation against total demand rather than a connection. The line has a capacity and so does the meter, and a new barbecue point, cooktop or continuous flow unit has to fit inside both.
Where it does not, appliances starve each other. A burner that drops off whenever somebody runs a shower is nearly always this rather than a faulty appliance.
Doing the sums before the work is most of the difference between an installation that works and a callback.
Every gas job finishes with a compliance certificate recording who did the work, that they were licensed, and that the installation met the standard on the day.
Keep it with the property papers. It is what an insurer asks for and what a conveyancer eventually asks for, and it cannot be reconstructed afterwards.
If you have had gas work done and never received one, chase it. It is not paperwork for its own sake.
Pipe sized for the run and the load, tested to pressure, appliances installed to the manufacturer's instructions with the required clearances, flueing that discharges where it should, and ventilation suited to the appliance and the space.
None of it is visible once the work is finished, which is the reason the certificate matters at all. It is the record of everything you cannot check yourself.
It is also the argument against unlicensed gas work. It looks identical on the day and the fault it leaves does not announce itself.
A barbecue cylinder belongs upright, outdoors, in ventilated space, and away from ignition sources and drains. Under a deck or in a closed garage is not that.
Cylinders also expire. There is a test date stamped on the collar and a filler will refuse one past it, which is generally how people find out.
Neither of those is expensive to get right. Both come up regularly enough to be worth mentioning on a page about hoses.
Fixed price agreed before anything starts. These are indicative 2026 ranges.
With any other gas work at the property. Mention it when you book.
Connected, tested and certified in one visit.
Priced on the run rather than by the hour.
With the compliance certificate handed over.
Made safe at any hour, with the cause established afterwards.
Everything, including the things people do not count as gas fittings. The hose in the yard is one of them.
Soapy water on hoses and connections, and a proper pressure test on anything we have worked on.
Fitted to the Australian Standards, whether that is a cooktop, a permanent outdoor connection or a hose that has had its day.
The Certificate of Compliance in your hand before we leave rather than in the post afterwards.
Get outside, leave the switches alone, and ring. A licensed gas fitter can be on the way immediately.
Call 1300 381 569It does, and it is a consumable rather than permanent plumbing. The hose from a bayonet or a cylinder to a barbecue is a flexible rubber and fabric assembly that lives outdoors, gets coiled and uncoiled, and spends its life in sunlight and weather. Rubber perishes under all three.
Look at it properly rather than glancing. Cracking on the outer surface, particularly near the fittings and anywhere it has been bent repeatedly. Hardness where it used to be supple. Any weeping, stiffness or visible damage at the connections. If any of that is there, replace it rather than think about it.
Soapy water on the hose and the connections with the gas turned on and the appliance off. Bubbles mean gas is escaping. It is a genuinely reliable test, it is what a fitter does, and it takes a couple of minutes with washing up liquid.
Manufacturers put a life on these assemblies and it is worth reading rather than guessing, and many hoses carry a date. In practice, if you cannot remember buying it, it is old enough to look at closely.
That is a different job and a proper one. A permanent connection is fixed pipework rather than a hose across the paving, and it is sized, installed and certified like any other gas work.
Everyone outside first. No light switches, nothing electrical, no phone used indoors. Turn the supply off at the meter only if you can reach it safely, then ring from outside.
A hose and connection check is included with any other gas work at the property. An appliance connection is $200 to $500. A new gas point is $500 to $1,200. A leak test and certificate is $180 to $350.
Tell us what you need doing, and how old the hose on the barbecue is. If the honest answer is that you have no idea, that is the answer we get most often.
Installed, tested and certified, at the figure agreed first.
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